Bespoke Part I — What is Semi-Bespoke?
After over two years of research and development, we launched our semi-bespoke in October of 2019. It’s quite different from our MTM and a lot of people ask us why it’s better or what the difference is and it actually takes more than just a few words to explain why. First, you need to know what semi-bespoke is to understand why it is better.
Semi-bespoke is made in the same traditional way as a bespoke suit. All of our patterns are hand cut, we will do two fittings and given it is hand cut and hand made, we have the ability to change the entire pattern during the fitting process in order to achieve the best fit. We are able to do this because the seam allowances are generous in the first basted fittings.
Jamen has quite a bit of experience in cutting and tailoring suits, and takes new commissions from customers once in a while—we call that ‘full bespoke’ since he is measuring, cutting, fitting the client, and making the suit entirely by hand. When Jamen makes a bespoke suit, it takes about 100 hours from start to finish.
Since it is an intensive process to bespoke make a suit, Jamen doesn’t have the time to cut all of our customers’ suits personally, so that’s why we work with a team of equally passionate cutters and tailors at our off-site workshop. In order to differentiate the product offering, we call this ‘semi-bespoke.' However, we may interchangeably call this line ‘bespoke’ as well.
When Jamen first came to PRINCIPLE M, we only offered MTM. It satisfied the majority of our customers but we knew we wanted to offer a semi-bespoke product to fulfill our clients as well as ourselves.
Semi-bespoke 3-piece Suit using Standeven British Mohair
With MTM, we can be extremely precise with measurements and timing but there are a lot of limitations as to what we can change on the pattern in order to achieve the perfect fit and style. However, we have so much more flexibility with semi-bespoke and we have control on the pattern and adjustments. This allows us to be closer to the perfect fit.
We take the time to make a proper suit, make the best fit and also to do beautiful finishing on the suits. I guess one of the downsides of semi-bespoke is it takes 2-3 months from start to finish…but hey, good things take time.
It's really nice to create suits for our clients—to design it, give the best fit possible and see him walk out of PRINCIPLE M with what we consider a piece of art. It’s really gratifying work!
This is the first part in a four part series help you better understand our bespoke. Each part will include a video and article. The four part series consists of:
Bespoke Part I: What is Bespoke (aka Semi-Bespoke)?
Bespoke Part II: What is the Style and Cut?
Bespoke Part III: The Process, Timing and Pricing.
Bespoke Part IV: Technical Aspects & The Making
If you have further questions, want to have a look at our shop or are interested in starting a suit, please contact us and we will set up a time to meet at our shop or at a future trunk show.