Bespoke Part III — The Process of Making an Order, Timing and Pricing
Semi-bespoke Video No.3 – The Process from Start to Finish of Commissioning a Suit
Commissioning one of our bespoke (aka semi-bespoke suits) involves many steps. From choosing the fabric, to understanding the timing and fittings, so it’s important to know what you are getting into.
First step is fabric selection and we have many such as Loro Piana, VBC, Harrisons, W.Bill, Fox Brothers, Hardy Minnis, Caccioppoli, Piacenza and more. If you know what you want, we can help you provide it but often times can help guide you. For example we can start by asking about the TPO—Time, place and occasion. Based on TPO and where and how you will be wearing your suit, we will give you some recommendations of fabrics that are suitable.
For example, If you are looking for something that can be worn formally but also broken up more casually for the colder seasons, we might recommend a heavier wool gaberdine such as a 400g fabric as the one pictured below on the left. It’s soft like a cotton but has a clean drape of wool.
If you are looking for something for your business travel that you can wear year round, a plain weave or high twist would suit you well since its wrinkle resistant and breathable .
After we choose the fabric, we will discuss the design, such as single or double breasted, or if you want a vest or extra trouser to go with the suit.
We will take around 25 measurements as well as analyze your posture and any other body characteristics that might affect the pattern.
After we take the measurements we will then go into designing the suit in detail. If you don’t have any strong design preferences, we will usually walk you through the design process and keep it in-line with our house style—classical and elegant.
Finally we will take some personal information and then 50% deposit or full payment to get started. This process of choosing the fabric to taking measurements usually takes about an hour or so.
Around 4 weeks after the first appointment, we will contact you for the first fitting. It’s always best that the customer wears dress shoes and a dress shirt for the fitting. This fitting usually takes 30-60 minutes. In the case you made an order at a trunk show, the waiting period may be different depending on the schedule of trunk shows.
After the first fitting, it takes about another 4 weeks to prepare the second fitting or longer depending on trunk show schedules. We might not always conduct a second fitting, it’s decided case by case and after the first fitting. Note, sometimes third fittings are also necessary and we will do what is necessary to delivery a good fitting bespoke garment.
Once the finished suit is ready, we will contact you and schedule a pick-up/final fitting. It’s important to conduct your final fitting because this way we can make notes if there is anything else that we should be aware of, whether that be a pattern adjustment or even a personal preference that we can take note of for future reference. For our trunk show customers, we can discuss delivery or pick-up options.
A quick wrap-up of the bespoke process:
Initial consultation, 60-90 minutes
Choose fabric, design and measurements.
Wait time to first fitting; approximately 4 weeks or at the next scheduled trunk show
First Fitting, 30-60 minutes
Wait time until second fitting: approximately 4 weeks or at the next scheduled trunk show
Second Fitting, 30-60 minutes
Second fittings are recommended but we go case by case, it may not always be necessary
Wait time for finished suit or for delivery; approximately 4 weeks
Finished Suit ready for pickup or delivery
For first time customers, we recommend in person deliveries/pickups.
Pricing
Our starting price for bespoke is $1500 USD for a two-piece suit using fabrics such as VBC, Reda and Stylebiella. Mid-range fabrics such as Harrisons and Hardy Minnis are around $2000 and higher range fabrics such as Loro Piana, Scabal and Piacenza from $3000 and up. We also do a lot of separate jackets and trousers (75% and 35% of the suit price, respectively).
As a follow-up service, we do free adjustments on the suits (within one year). We also offer free pressing services for the life of the garments if you bring them into the shop.
This is the third of a four part series that we produced to help you better understand our bespoke.
Bespoke Part I: What is Bespoke (aka Semi-Bespoke)?
Bespoke Part II: What is the Style and Cut?
Bespoke Part III: The Process, Timing and Pricing.
Bespoke Part IV: Technical Aspects & The Making
If you have further questions, want to have a look at our shop or are interested in starting a suit, please contact us and we will set up a time to meet at our shop or at a future trunk show.