Suit Geek n.11 Mr. Hanqing

“SUIT GEEK” is PRINCIPLE M's original feature column where each month we reach out to one of our loyal customers & friends and ask him to share his clothing, life, and his unique point of view on gentlemen‘s style. Click ''above to read previous interviews.

For our 11th interview, also the first guest of this year, we invite our friend & client Mr. Zhang Hanqing. As a regular client at PM, Hanqing went through the traditional satorial journey, from customized shirts, to classic men's accessories, and eventually to a Semi-bespoke suit. Today, he will also share some tips on how he dresses himself in a more conservative environment.

Hanqing is a fun person to be around, no matter if it's an interview, or a short conversation, he could always make you laugh, with his natural, je-ne-sais-quoi sense of humour. As a Beijing local, he also shares some of his favourite spots in town, films that inspire him and his love for music.

HIS TAILORING JOURNEY

"There was a very specific time when I really loved wearing jackets. I usually paired it up with jeans. A bit of western style. Under the jacket, sometimes I wore shirts, or even t-shirts. That was a few years ago when I just finished school.

I had a job at that time, but it didn’t require me to work at the office that much, so I got to travel a lot, meeting friends, hanging out with them. So, I wanted to look good, and posh, which was there reason why I wanted to wear jackets."

Justin: I remember the first time I met you was at my shop. How did you hear about us and come here?

“It was very interesting. It was a few years ago, right? I was having lunch downstair at Bottega with my friends. I was wearing a jacket that day, then I and my friends started having conversations about suits. One of my friends then said that there’s a very nice menswear store upstairs, we should go and check it out. That’s how it got me here.”

“The first thing I got here was three customized white shirts. I wanted to do tailored shirts because I have a very thick neck, it’s hard for me to buy RTW shirts. The fit is always wrong, if I wear RTW shirts . Besides, I have to dress formally for work, so wearing shirts is necessary.

Then, I started to buy some accessories here, then chinos, trousers, then jackets and suits…I’m hooked! It’s like an addiction.”

HIS PERSONAL STYLE

“I don’t think I have a specific style, but I appreciate classical menswear style very much.“

Work Style

”Suits, of course. Usually in darker colours, such as navy, dark grey or black. In the summer, maybe something lighter, like beige. Single breasted or double breasted, It doesn’t matter, but always wear a tie and a shirt.“

Justin : Sounds quite conservative, actually.

"Very conservative. But, I tried to play it down a little bit, to have a bit more fun. For example, wearing a tie that is a little bit abstract, or maybe wear a pink shirt, or a light blue shirt."

PM Semi-bespoke double-breasted suit commissioned by Mr. Hanqing in May 2020

Justin : Can you tell us why you wore this outfit today?

"I remember when I was thinking to make a bespoke black suit, I had my doubts, as well. But, the result turned out to be pretty good. What’s very interesting is, I think a black suit can be paired up with anything, from business formal clothing to casual shoes, almost anything."

"Today, I’m not going to work; I’m going out, then I thought I wanted to be a bit more playful, maybe western style, so I wore this denim shirt with a pair of boots, to balance it out the seriousness of a double-breasted black suit."

"This is also an amazing tie, so thanks Nicolas!"

"I think a lot of classical menswear items are very versatile, to mix and match with some new, modern things, like bright colour shirts, etc."

PM Semi-bespoke Double-breasted Suit. Commissioned by Mr. Hanqing in June.2020

Off-work & Party Style

"If I have time to go back home to change, I’d usually take off my suit, change it to a blazer and a pair of jeans. Switch the dress shoes to a pair of boots, like what I’m wearing right now."

"It also really depends on the occasions. If I’m going to a jazz bar, like I was with you last time, I would wear a suit, without a tie. If I go to underground clubs, like Lantern, or Zhaodai, just nearby, I would change to something very rock n roll, haha."

Left: Mr. Hanqing in PM X TR Limited Edition Leather Jacket

HIS LIFESTYLE

"I played the saxophone for 10 years when I was little. I mostly learned classical pieces for the saxophone at that time. It was pretty special to play Mozart’s pieces with that instrument.

After I grew up, when I picked it up again and it was easy for me to play some jazz, too."

"I appreciate all types of music, but if I have to choose, my favourite would be jazz, classic music and rock n roll. My favourite musicians vary, too, I worship Beethoven, and Richard Wagner, but I also enjoy Rolling Stones and David Bowie."

INS: @hanqing89

"For movies, I like Blade Runner, the original one. That was pretty cool. Also, some of the European classics, like Luchino Visconti's Il Gattopardo (The Leopard )."

Alain Delon in Il Gattopardo

Justin : When you travel, especially for a longer trip, what clothing do you pack in your suitcase?

“I usually try to travel light. I don’t want to pack too many things, but I try to bring a lot of interesting accessories, to mix it up with my clothing. If I go to Europe, of course I would bring a suit, in case I need to wear it for a nice dinner. I also like operas a lot, so I will wear a very nice suit.”

“If I travel to Cuba or Jamaica, somewhere with a beach, I would bring a Panama hat, some light scarves, and different swimming trunks haha. I’m a beach holiday kind of guy.

INS: @hanqing89

"The first place I want to travel after COVID is Argentina! I’ve always liked Latino culture and tango dance, but I haven’t been to South America, yet. I think after the pandemic, I’m going to take a long holiday in Argentina, three months, maybe!"

Justin : As a Beijing local, is there any place you want to recommend or frequently visit?

"There’s a restaurant called Ling Long at Sanlitun. It’s pretty cool. The chef is from Taiwan, I think."

"Usually, I would take a weekend off every month and go to the west (of Beijing), spending some time with my family. They live really close to the Summer Palace, so sometimes, we would go there and take a stroll. I grew up in the westside of Beijing, so I would always feel a sense of belonging there. It makes me relax, like an escape from reality."